Interview: Yigal Azrouël

By Maitland Quitmeyer, July 12th, 2012

Designer Yigal Azrouël’s namesake label has been making fashion headlines since its first collection in 1998. Known for feminine draping and classic lines, Azrouël is not the typical designer. Interested in the construction of garments from a young age, Azrouël found himself buying clothing from vintage stores, deconstructing the garments, and putting them back together, learning not only how a piece of clothing was made but also allowing him to discover techniques of his own. As a self-taught designer, his collections are able to be infused with personality. He explains, “I don’t feel bound to traditional practices and am really able to experiment and create my own signature techniques.”

Born in Israel and of French-Moroccan descent, the designer’s adopted hometown is New York City, a place which inspires his classic looks. He says, “I am very inspired by the architecture and urban cityscape of New York City – they influence the silhouettes of my collection. The diversity of the people and all their unique fashion choices really make New York the fashion capital that it is.”

After designing for fourteen years, Azrouël has stayed true to his design ideals while keeping a modern feel. He describes how the line has evolved since its conception, saying, “The core of my aesthetic has remained true to who I am and the initial conception of the Yigal Azrouël brand. Over time, I have really experimented with new fabrications and new silhouettes, which give each collection a more modern and fresh perspective. This makes them relevant for the time.”

After the success of his line for women, Azrouël’s menswear line debuted in 2007, but the designer approaches both lines very differently. “When I design my womenswear collection, I envision and project an image of style and beauty that is more of an ideal and a fantasy that I try to achieve,” he explains. “With my men’s collection, I design with my personal style and way of dressing in mind. Designing for men and women are completely different frames of mind so I can’t really say which I prefer.” Azrouël’s most recent line, Cut25, debuted in fall 2010, is “more accessible” than his namesake womenswear line. When asked to describe the difference, his answer is simple. “The Yigal Azrouël woman is sophisticated and refined while the Cut25 girl is edgier and more experimental with her fashion choices. Both customers are educated about fashion and knowledgeable of current trends.”

Azrouël’s Fall/Winter 2012 womenswear collection was inspired by Francoise Hardy, French singer, actress, and astrologer. The line has the essence of Hardy’s sense of style and, as Azrouël puts it, her “irreverent personality.” Azrouël describes it as “cool with a bit of tough edge. The colors are drawn from nature so they really work together in an organic way.” Playing on the idea of Hardy’s modesty, the line is relatively covered up, with tailored lines and rich fabrics like leather, fur, and wool. What is he most looking forward to for fall 2012? “Seeing women playing with textures and mixing masculine elements like tailored jackets with body conscious dresses. My must have for fall 2012 is something fair isle and a great leather jacket.”

The biggest mistake men and women make when it comes to fashion? “For men, fit. Finding the right fit for a lot of men is a really difficult challenge and it’s a sensibility but also a lot of experiment. For women, confidence. It’s easy to find and wear a great dress. But if the dress is wearing you then the entire idea of fashion is irrelevant.” A designer who has worked with the likes of Natalie Portman, Charlize Theron, and Gwyneth Paltrow, Azrouël finds he doesn’t design for a celebrity, but rather the celebrities he works with capture the Yigal Azrouël aesthetic. He explains, “Her style is effortless and sophisticated. She has a quiet confidence. And, through her clothing choices and personality, she dares to be noticed. She wears the clothes, the clothes don’t wear her.”

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