CITYist

It was a particularly balmy evening, even by New York standards. But that did not deter hordes of style cognoscenti, dressed, in April, for a mid-summer night’s cruise, from crossing FDR Drive to the East River for an H&M party in honor of British frock-star Matthew Williamson.

Hunky soldiers and their comely counterparts ushered guests including Adrien Brody, Helena Christensen, and Lucy Liu along the carpeted boardwalk spiked with Williamson’s giddily pink logo. Once aboard, they waited for Grace Jones to flex regal and fierce across a stage that had obviously endured its fair share of karaoke Barry Manilows.

The next day, an understandably fatigued but chipper Williamson, in his shop on West 14th Street, described the love boat affair as “very full on.” That decidedly English phrase could well describe the stateside activity of Williamson. His stock has steadily risen via high-profile fêtes for a series of strategic events, such as the February 2009 New York shop opening with its free-flowing pink Champagne — an occasion that marks the career of any designer, and underlines the ambition of the label that bears his name.
Williamson, the latest in a list of fashion illuminate who have collaborated with H&M, seems like the new kid on the block in comparison to acclaimed veterans Rei Kawakubo and Karl Lagerfeld. Unlike other designers on that (still-short) list, he is not a scion of pop culture royalty (as is Stella McCartney) nor does his label name lend itself with facility to an infectious hip-hop rhyme, such as Cavalli.

His inclusion to said list may seem like a kind of fashion Star Search, a benefaction of sorts. “I was very flattered to have been asked…to join such an illustrious company,” he says. But the selection shows canny insight on the part of H&M, as Williamson handles color and femininity with ease and has a reputation for throwing a memorable party that corrals serious celebrity heat.

Williamson has been in the business for 13 years, securing key consultancy positions at home in England and globally (the kind that thrill marketing and accounting departments), and witnessing his friendships with Sienna Miller, Jade Jagger, Beth Ditto, and Kelis (he designed her green wedding dress, perhaps an ill-fated color selection, in retrospect) become fodder for the 24-hour news cycle, adding immeasurably to the credit of his company. As adolescence goes, his is poised to mature handsomely.

He is a well-known commodity in his native England. He opened his first free-standing shop in London’s posh Mayfair area in May 2004 to showcase his signature high-end collection, and also sold at Harvey Nichols, Bergdorf Goodman, and Wynn Las Vegas, among others. Additionally, he has designed collections in collaboration with British high-street retailers, offering his sexy silhouettes and “evocative color and print sensibility” at various prices in the market. “You have to do things to survive, that hopefully you enjoy,” he says. “It’s about counting the pennies over the long haul.” Survival tactics like these also reinforce brand awareness.

After a cigarette, Williamson enters the shop to the sexy burr of Roisin Murphy wafting from the speakers. As with the Bruton Street location, Williamson worked with Clare Ceprynski, the company’s image director, advancing the initial concept for West 14th Street. There is a third shop in Dubai that opened late Spring 2009. “I wanted to create a real journey, like walking into a kaleidoscope,” Williamson says. The 3000-square-foot selling space boasts singular items bought at auctions, bespoke cabinets, and handmade silk wallpaper. The black and white rug woven with a peacock design by The Rug Company had been moved temporarily. “It is supposed to be here, where we are sitting,” says Williamson as he looks around for it, his voice trailing off. The peacock has become somewhat of a personal leitmotif — dresses printed with the unmistakable feather pattern caused pandemonium at retail some years back, and the same pattern informs the fretwork adorning the Dubai location.

Of the two collections Williamson was asked to design, the second, which includes items for men, was distributed to over 1,000 stores worldwide, at least 800 more than any other of the co-branded collections. He loved the idea of designing a menswear collection based on him and his wardrobe. “I had never done it before for my own line,” he says. “It was a completely self-indulgent project. Finally, clothes that I could wear, could fully experience.” When asked if his company would add menswear to its current output of women’s clothing, shoes, and bags, Williamson says that they need funding to develop it properly, from staffing to getting on the production, selling, designing calendars. “But the Blue Room (in the New York shop) was envisioned as a potential menswear area, so maybe in 2010,” he says.
On one rack there are some brightly hued jersey dresses that wouldn’t look out of place at Pucci. For three years, Williamson held the position of creative director for the storied Florentine fashion house. It seemed inevitable that the LVHM-owned Pucci would cannibalize both his time and design ethic, sharing a similar DNA, even before his arrival. “Between designing in Florence and then shuttling back to London to work on my own label, I felt like I had two jobs, a day one and night job,” he says. He later reveals that this is the first time in a couple of years where he is able to concentrate fully on his own collection. “I’m not getting any younger,” he notes with a puckish grin.

Other dresses show off remarkable Spirograph inspired prints, designed by Clare’s sister who “was doing some beautiful work for Hussein,” as in Chalayan, the brilliantly conceptual fashion designer.

Williamson’s sense of family shines through in other ways. His parents, who worked with him in the early years, flew across the Atlantic to take part in the festivities. But by lunchtime his father had disappeared. “Last night at the party, my dad struck up a conversation with David Schwimmer,” Williamson says. The two discussed soccer, namely the Arsenal versus Manchester United semi-final for the Champions Cup, scheduled for the next day. For anyone born in or near England’s Second City, this was a world event.

Though not entirely familiar with American sitcom stars, Williamson the senior was raised better than to turn down a personal invitation from a fan of English soccer. “I woke up in the morning to find a message on my phone from David Schwimmer saying I will meet you in the pub down Bleeker Street,” Williamson the senior recounted to his bemused son.

“Concilio et Labore” (by wisdom and effort) may be the motto for Manchester, England’s Second City around which Matthew Williamson was born, but one thinks that he would also recognize that serendipity, a chatty dad, and aptly pink Champagne pave the way too.